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QUICK BITE

A modern tavern inspired by a historical one

From the team behind La Morra and Heritage of Sherborn, Punch Bowl opens in Brookline

A flatbread at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village.
A flatbread at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village.Lane Turner/Globe Staff

Where to: Punch Bowl, a “modern city tavern” in Brookline’s Hilton Garden Inn.

Why: It’s run by Jen and Josh Ziskin, the wife-husband team behind two proven favorites: Italian restaurant La Morra and the Heritage of Sherborn, with its New England farm-to-table aesthetic. A brand new restaurant in a brand new hotel! Nature is healing.

Restaurateurs Jen and Josh Ziskin and executive chef Amanda Lowry at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village.
Restaurateurs Jen and Josh Ziskin and executive chef Amanda Lowry at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village.Lane Turner/Globe Staff

The backstory: Josh grew up in Brookline, and Jen taught history here before they opened La Morra almost two decades ago. So naturally they were inspired by the story of the Punch Bowl Tavern, which opened in 1730. “It was such a community epicenter that they named Brookline Village ‘Punch Bowl Village’ after it,” Jen says. The tavern was also a stop on the stagecoach route that took travelers from Boston to the MetroWest area where Heritage of Sherborn is located. “It tied all that together.” You’ll find a picture of the historic tavern behind the host stand of its modern descendant.

The Punch Bowl Tower at the Punch Bowl restaurant.
The Punch Bowl Tower at the Punch Bowl restaurant.Lane Turner/Globe Staff
Calamari at the Punch Bowl restaurant.
Calamari at the Punch Bowl restaurant.Lane Turner/Globe Staff
Kale Caesar at the Punch Bowl restaurant.
Kale Caesar at the Punch Bowl restaurant.Lane Turner/Globe Staff
Beer-Battered Soft Shell Crab at the Punch Bowl restaurant.
Beer-Battered Soft Shell Crab at the Punch Bowl restaurant.Lane Turner/Globe Staff

What to eat: Executive chef Amanda Lowry (the Butcher Shop, Dovetail) serves a menu replete with New England seafood and modernized classics. Start with local oysters or splash out on a whole seafood tower, then move on to fried calamari with smoked baby tomatoes, squid ink aioli, and pea tendrils; broiled spot prawns with shoestring potatoes and black garlic emulsion; or pan-seared hake with a parsnip latke and smoked mussels. You’ll also find a kale Caesar, wild mushroom cappelletti, a grilled Berkshire pork chop, Maine blueberry cobbler, and more. For lunch, perhaps a softshell crab sandwich or burrata flatbread?

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Rainbow Planter’s Punch at the Punch Bowl restaurant.
Rainbow Planter’s Punch at the Punch Bowl restaurant.Lane Turner/Globe Staff
The Molly Pitcher at the Punch Bowl restaurant.
The Molly Pitcher at the Punch Bowl restaurant.Lane Turner/Globe Staff

What to drink: As you’d expect from a modern tavern, grog is a focus. Signature cocktails such as the Muddy River Mule (raspberry-infused vodka, ginger beer, and lime) and the large-format Seneca Falls (white wine with strawberry puree and mint, serves 4-6) nod to local geography and women’s history. When Jen Ziskin was doing historical research for the restaurant, she says, she read a lot about women’s roles as innkeepers and barmaids: “Those were respectable jobs back in the day. That inspired our female-focused wine list, as well.” It highlights women winemakers, proprietors, growers, and more. (Coming soon: a third-floor terrace overlooking the Emerald Necklace, featuring tiki drinks.)

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The takeaway: For anyone who appreciates La Morra and Heritage of Sherborn, local history, and local seafood, Punch Bowl beckons.

Hilton Garden Inn, 700 Brookline Ave., Brookline, 617-487-8581, www.punchbowlbrookline.com

The patio at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village.
The patio at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village.Lane Turner/Globe Staff
The dining room at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village.
The dining room at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village. Lane Turner/Globe Staff
The bar area at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village.
The bar area at the Punch Bowl restaurant in the new Hilton Garden Inn in Brookline Village. Lane Turner/Globe Staff

Devra First can be reached at devra.first@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.